The fashion icon Edward Enninful discusses Modern Britain: 'A Decline in Tolerance' Compared to the Nineties.

A chance encounter while riding the tube in 1988 changed forever the path of a teenage Ghanaian arrival to Britain. Scouted as a model, Edward Enninful was swiftly pulled into the capital's electric 1990s cultural landscape, evolving from model to stylist and, by the age of 18, becoming the style editor of i-D magazine.

"It was the height of the YBA movement – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I encountered Kate Moss at a casting," he remembers. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I felt we’d be great friends. We all mixed across disciplines. Friday became Saturday into Sunday. I yearn for that rawness."

Although Enninful appears nostalgic, he is far from alone. In recent times, a longing look back of the 1990s has become pervasive. But over the last thirty years, Enninful believes a noticeable regression. "I believe, we’re less tolerant now than we were in the 90s," he observes. "It’s not even this country – it’s worldwide."

A Perceived Regression

This change is increasingly evident: the resurgence of nationalist groups, the backlash against progressive values, and the reinforcement of Eurocentric beauty standards. In place of the optimism of the previous decade, currently a different political force looms as a possible leader. Even, the Union Jack, once an emblem of Cool Britannia, has returned as a polarising symbol.

In Enninful's view, the response has long been to celebrate culture in all its multifaceted forms. This was the guiding principle behind his first issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a portrait of modern Britain, featuring a wide range of influential figures from literature.

"Individuals with a platform should employ it," he comments, discussing those editorial decisions. "Everyone talks about immigration; I could not have had this life if Britain hadn't been a open country, if it did not offer my family a refuge and an education. That’s the Britain I cherished. I believe this period will fade."

A New Wave of Consciousness

He takes comfort in the youth of today: "They are far more conscious than we were. They analyse unconscious bias – I didn't even know what that was."

Those early experiences would define a groundbreaking career marked by fearlessness and representation. Enninful made history as the first man, first Black editor, first gay man, and first disabled gay man of colour to lead at British Vogue. His leadership featured diverse covers showcasing models of colour, plus-sized women, older individuals, and people from all walks of life. Importantly, sales increased.

"When you ignore vast segments of the population, it’s not just that you’re failing to represent – it’s bad for business," he states.

Launching a Creative Venture

He has recently launched his agency EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his first major project since leaving his previous role. He says he wants to continue being a "innovator".

"My nature is to challenge the established norms. I was brought up in a place where the majority was Black – the physicians, the attorneys, the leader. Then we came to England, penniless, and I became the 'other'. I was painfully reserved. My teachers predicted I’d achieve nothing. Me and my brothers were subject to police stops the suspicion laws … this duality gave me a dual identity on the inside and the outside."

In contrast to the caricature of industry figures as loud and highly strung, Enninful is measured in tone and radiates serenity. His path has involved adversity, including openly discussed battles with depression and addiction.

He has also endured serious health challenges, having had multiple operations on his eyes, now leaving him with impaired eyesight. "I experienced such a time of fear for two years, not working, fearing I was going to lose my sight. It’s comparable to PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I thought, if this ever is over, I’m just going to do everything that I was so afraid to do. I’m not going to confine myself to just being an editor or a fashion person."

Curating a Cultural Era

This determination to be typecast has led him outside the world that made his name. He is now curating a significant 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, bringing together work by a roster of pivotal artists and photographers from the era. The show, he explains, aims to capture the decade's interdisciplinary energy – and give platform to those who did not receive adequate attention at the time.

"Galleries sometimes neglected to shine a light on the most relevant talents because they weren't of the traditional credentials," he observes.

This venture itself operates on a unique business model, eschewing traditional advertising in favour of creative collaborations. "The question is, what can we achieve in partnership? Is it an experience, a series? The magazine is one component of a greater ecosystem."

An Unstoppable Drive

Today, Enninful operates as one of the world's most influential cultural influencers. His story, he believes, is a proof to the power of pursuing your passions.

What would the younger Edward make of the man he has become? He chuckles. "He’d be in shock, but he’d be proud. In those days I was a rebel. I never imagined institutions like Tate were necessarily for me."

He pauses. "Gratitude is key. We were displaced, we fled our country. I came close to losing my vision. So fear isn't an option. People have underestimated me my entire life. But nothing can stop me once I’ve made up my mind to do something."